June 20, 2023

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SOUTH AFRICA is located on the southernmost tip of the African continent. This Blog is part of a travel series covering the Road Hackers' three month visit to the Western Cape in 2022. 

Rainman actually grew up in South Africa, so this was a homecoming of sorts. We had visited South Africa on six occasions between 1999 and 2016. Other than a four-week visit when Tricia first met the family, subsequent trips were for no longer than two or three weeks given our career constraints. Now that we were retired from traditional jobs and living a life on the road, this was to be our first slow-travel immersion in South Africa.

This trip was going to be our first extended international visit in more than 20 years. Unfortunately, it came as the Omicron Covid variant was wreaking havoc across the globe.

To make things worse, Omicron was first identified by a South African Lab, which made South Africa quite the pariah internationally. In fact, doctors and medical research in the country are top notch. Discovering the variant unfairly painted the country as its origin. Our family in South Africa assured us that the severity of Omicron was being overblown by the media.

The U.S. State Department was strongly warning against travel to South Africa. However, we felt comfortable continuing with our travel plans, having both been vaccinated and boosted before departing. Thanks to our travel insurance with World Nomads, we also had some peace of mind in case of unexpected cancellations. 

We felt comfortable traveling, having been both vaccinated and boosted.

South Africa was requiring an RT-PCR test no more than 72 hours before boarding the plane. At the time, rapid-results RT-PCR tests were in short supply, and very expensive at $225 each--if you could even get one. It took us a couple weeks to find a lab with the required tests and and the ability to show results within our narrow travel window.

Social media was full of horror stories of people being turned away at the gate because results had not arrived by the time of departure. Sadly, we actually saw this happen at our gate in Newark, New Jersey.

With that in mind, we weren't going to take any chances. So we did our homework, and following our test, camped out at the Lab to make sure that every requirement was met. What a relief when we got our results: NEGATIVE!

South Africa required a negative RT-PCR test no more than 72 hours before flying

The document showing the final results was on official letterhead, included the name of the required PCR test, and the name and signature of the approved health professional administering and reading the test. Success! We finally had license to travel. Because of the small window of time to get the test results before departure, nothing was certain until very close to the time we were scheduled to leave. Stressful!

At the time, we were staying at our condo in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina. A rare ice storm blew through a few days before we were scheduled to fly, causing power outages and more stress. Luckily, the weather cooperated by the time Saturday arrived, and we headed to Myrtle Beach International Airport (MYR), a few short mikes from home. First we were headed to Newark. We had found an amazing United Air flight direct to Cape Town (14.5 hours) for a very reasonable price (about $450 each one way). Things were looking up!

Other than having to wear our face masks for about 15 hours straight, everything went perfectly on our flight direct from Newark to Cape Town (EWR - CPT). Once we arrived in the Cape Town airport, we breezed through the Covid, Immigration, and Customs control points. 

Mask mandates made traveling more restrictive, and we were required to wear masks for our entire 15 hour flight

Coming from the cold of the northern hemisphere, it was wonderful to walk out into the warm air of a summer evening again! We were greeted by a big crew of excited family, who we hadn't seen in person since our last visit in 2016.

After greetings, hugs, and catching them up on our flight, we headed to Gordon's Bay, a small seaside village about 31 miles/51 km from Cape Town. Most of the family lives there and in nearby towns, and it would be our base for the next three months. After the long air travel, the drive home was relatively short.

The Western Cape was to be our excursion playground. Transportation was not going to be a problem. Our brother-in-law, Mauricio, who was once a motorcycle and race car driver, loves to be behind the wheel, and was always chomping to be our tour guide and chauffeur for any new adventure with us. We were more than happy to pay for gas.

The Helderberg Area and Gordon's Bay
First, let's orient you to the Helderberg area and our home base of Gordon's Bay.

Most international tourists arrive at the Cape Town airport (CPT) when touring the Western Cape. It's only natural for these tourists to choose Cape Town as their home base. Cape Town is a modern, cosmopolitan gem, and definitely worth exploring, but it would be a mistake to venture no further.

To experience more layers of the area, there is a wide array of locations to delve into. To expand your adventures, it is well worth considering one of the Helderberg communities instead.

The Helderberg area is only 28 miles/45 km from Cape Town on the N2 highway. The area is dramatically framed by the Hottentots Holland mountain range and the iconic Helderberg Mountain. Somerset West, Strand, and Gordon's Bay are the main communities that cater to tourists in the area.

Having a base in the Helderberg communities has several advantages:

  • Close enough to Cape Town for day trips
  • Rentals are about 20% cheaper than in Cape Town
  • Less than 5 miles/8 km from the nearest wine estate
  • Blue Flag beaches in both Strand and Gordon's Bay
  • Less than a half hour from Elgin Valley
  • Less than an hour from Hermanus
  • Close to the Helderberg Nature Reserve
  • A half hour from Stellenbosch

That list could go on and on ... but you get the picture.

Gordon's Bay is the smallest of the three Helderberg towns, and the furthest from Cape Town. The village literally lies at the base of the Hottentots Holland mountain range, which makes for a stunning background as you approach. Many of the houses are built up against the mountain, with spectacular views of False Bay.

Gordon's Bay is situated on False Bay at the base of the Hottentots Holland mountain range

Gordon's Bay is home to the South African Naval College. The original village developed around the old harbor and yacht club area, which are quite close to Gordon's Bay's Blue Flag Bikini Beach. More recent development has focused on the area near the Gordon's Bay Main Beach. 

The Old Harbor in Gordon's Bay is home to the South African Naval College and the Yacht Club

The Harbor Island development is the latest residential expansion at the far western side of town. This private marina estate was built less than 30 years ago. The man-made marina has more than 500 residential units, many with their own dedicated marina moorings. The community is designed around a series of canals and waterways, with protected access to to the ocean.

The Harbor Island development is designed around a series of canals and waterways, with protected access to to the ocean

Harbor Island rentals can be found on AirBnB once in a while, but they tend to be snapped up rather quickly, and with good reason. The private-access amenities and walkable proximity to grocery stores, restaurants, and the luxuries of 4-star Krystal Beach Hotel all make Harbor Island the place to be in Gordon's Bay!

The luxurious Krystal Beach Hotel has beautiful ocean and mountain views, and overlooks the Harbor Island Boardwalk and Marina

The Krystal Beach Hotel has 112 luxury suites with fantastic ocean and mountain views. The hotel also offers a world class Conference Center, an amazing spa (Krystal Comfort), two high-end restaurants (Krystal Restaurant and The Captain's Table), and a lively cocktail bar (Oh La La Bar). The hotel's ndiza Art Gallery is definitely worth a visit, and was our favorite part of the hotel.

The ndiza Gallery in the Krystal Beach Hotel is worth a visit even if you're not a guest of the hotel

Now, let's take a look at our accommodations. 

Rainman's sister and Mauricio's wife, Jane, booked us into a one-bedroom self-catering apartment on the second floor of the beautiful Boardwalk Accommodations property. Located right next to the Krystal Beach Hotel, it offered the same fantastic ocean and mountain views, with our apartment overlooking the Harbor Island Boardwalk and Marina.

Our self-catering 2nd floor apartment at The Boardwalk was a prime location, with stunning ocean, mountain, and marina views

Fortunately for us, we were able to take advantage of a deeply-discounted Covid rate for our three-month stay. Our monthly rate was very reasonable at about $880 (depending on the exchange rate).

We had seen the online pictures of our apartment, and wondered if they were too good to be true--but instead they turned out to be as advertised, and proved to be even better in person!

The apartment was well equipped, and included everything we needed to make it our three-month home:

  • great room with kitchen/dining area/lounge with large windows & double doors leading to the balcony
  • balcony with long table, four chairs, chaise lounge chair, electric grill, with mountain and ocean views, overlooking the Harbor Island Boardwalk and Marina
  • full kitchen that included a four-burner stove and small oven, refrigerator/freezer, microwave, coffee maker, electric kettle, toaster, full set of dinnerware, utensils, various pots/pans/bowls, dish drainer, kitchen towels, & potholders
  • lounge with couch, chair, coffee table, pull-out couch, cable TV, and ceiling fan
  • private bedroom with queen bed/sheets/pillows/blankets, and air conditioning
  • bathroom with sink, ample countertop, and storage shelving undernreath; tub, walk-in shower with shampoo & body wash dispensers, hair dryer, and bathroom towels
  • electricity
  • water
  • excellent WiFi
  • clean linens and towels & full apartment cleaning weekly
  • security-coded door lock & intercom system
  • large gated parking area with designated parking spot

The great room in our Boardwalk apartment included the kitchen, dining area, and this ample lounge leading to the balcony 

Walking through the apartment, we knew we had made the right choice. The place was beautifully appointed, with modern upgrades throughout. The balcony was something special, with a view of the ocean and mountain backdrop overlooking the Harbor Island Marina. The yachts and sail boats of the marina were only 50 feet away!

Imagine having this balcony view every day, with the ocean, mountains, and the Harbor Island Boardwalk & Marina right in your back yard

We couldn't wait to open the curtains each day, as the balcony gave us a front row seat on an ever-changing vista. The Marina was constantly busy with yachts and fishing boats setting about their business, and people walking along the boardwalk. And the sunsets that painted the sky each evening gave us pause to draw the curtains at night.

Sunset views from the balcony were stunning, with a new portrait painted every evening

The set of binoculars we brought came in handy to watch the wildlife right outside our door. There were Egyptian geese honking elaborate conversations, an occasional stately great blue heron having a brief respite from its travels, and lots of other birds stopping off for a bit or performing an exquisitely choreographed dance  in the sky. We couldn't believe our eyes when one morning we saw a couple dolphins surfing the waves just beyond the harbor break wall! 

The mountain and ocean view from the left side of the balcony, where we spotted dolphins surfing the waves beyond the harbor break wall

We were especially delighted to discover that the Marina had five resident Cape Fur Seals. They would effortlessly hoist themselves onto the boat moorings, enjoy a sometimes lengthy siesta in the sun, and then slink back down into the water when they needed to cool off. Soon we gave them names based on their identifying sizes and markings.

It was fun watching our resident seals playing in the marina in front of our balcony

As we always do when arriving in a new country, we immediately set about organizing our nest for the three-month stay. A number of practical matters needed to be addressed so we could be fully functional--unpacking, getting acquainted with our surroundings, and grocery shopping. But our first, biggest priority was getting our tech connected.

Our dual voltage Echo Dots, Fire Stick, and power bank would need electrical adapters. South Africa uses C, D, M, and N plugs. U.S. plugs are usually A or B. We found that the South African Type-C plug worked for all our dual voltage devices. Type-C has 2 round prongs.

The South African three pin electrical plug required adaptors for our tech and appliances to function

In the U.S., our electrical plugs mostly operate on 110V, while South African plugs operate on 230 volts. Luckily, almost all of our devices are rated as dual voltage (110 - 240 volts). In other words, they can operate anywhere in the dual voltage range.

Our curling iron, electric toothbrush, and shaver were exceptions, and required converters to step down the current for use with U.S. 110V rated devices. Plugging both the adapter and the converter into the wall plug was always a balancing act. The fit was never quite snug, which compromised the connectivity at times. 

Next, we had to make sure we had cell phone reception, and that Google Fi would work in South Africa. Google Fi connected immediately, giving us all the functionality we depended on for phone, text, maps, and data. Google Fi is great because you can keep your phone number while traveling the world, and it doesn't cost a fortune. It actually turned out to be more affordable than the the cell plan we had back home. 

Unfortunately, we knew this wouldn't last. Google Fi is designed for primary use in the United States. After about four months of international use, data is cut off. The good news is that phone and text functions still continue to be supported.

Setting up our WiFi connection was relatively easy across all our devices: iPhones, MacBooks, Kindle, Amazon Echo Dots, and our Amazon Fire TV Stick. The signal was strong and consistent.

The iPhones, MacBooks, and Kindle linked to the local WiFi instantly. Charging these devices did present a small problem, though. Our charging cables for these devices did not have the correct electrical plug adapters.

Connecting our laptops and cell phones to the local WiFi was easy, but charging them required adapters

Media connections were next on the agenda. We were anxious to see if we would be able to have our beloved Amazon Fire TV, Amazon Music, and Netflix while in South Africa. With our electrical adapter problems solved, this was one more big test.

The Amazon Fire Stick connected to Amazon just fine, but we had only very limited access to our favorite movies and TV shows. Not much of a problem, since there were plenty to choose from for the brief times we would be watching anything, as we knew we'd be busy with family and sightseeing.  Better news on the Amazon Music front though, since we had full access to all of our Playlists!

Another positive revelation: Netflix worked perfectly, with no noticeable difference. A few sitcoms weren't available to the South African market, but just about everything else seemed accessible.

At this point, we thought we had solved all our electrical and connection issues, but there was one more hitch. Family had complained to us about South Africa's very regular rolling black-outs throughout the year called load shedding. ESKOM, the electrical company, has complicated schedules for different areas that are published online for planning purposes. But they didn't always make sense to us!

Load shedding was a random but frequent occurrence, with complicated schedules we had a hard time understanding initially

The load shedding schedule was very random, with seemingly not a lot of rhyme or reason. For example, it didn't consistently happen every day, or every week. But once a round started, there were usually at least three 2-hour electricity interruptions each 24-hour period. The cycle could go on for two or three days each round. 

No electricity meant no lights, no internet, no fans or air conditioning, and no functioning street lights! The Boardwalk provided each apartment unit with a portable light that could be recharged when electricity was functional again. Another plus: Water pumps were not run by electricity in our apartments, so access to water was never a concern. 

People have developed elaborate strategies for dealing with the outages, like having a thermos of hot water ready for their beloved any-time-of-day-or-night coffee, or battery backups for essentials. We stocked up on candles and flashlights, and made sure our power bank and phones were charged.

We had to be sure our devices were charged to be prepared for whenever load shedding occurred

Normal modern life was sent into a bit of a tailspin when power was off for a few hours, several times a day. It took some planning to be ready to spend your time differently while the power was off. Reading, games, actual conversations! Or that battery backup...

Our vote for the worst time for the outages was between 6 pm and 10 pm. Luckily, most restaurants and stores had generators so they could still operate, but functioning credit card machines were not a given. Experiencing load shedding firsthand, we could really relate to what the family had been complaining about!

With all the electrical and connectivity issues addressed, we were ready to stock up on all our grocery staples. Our accommodation was fully equipped for being self-sufficient for meals. Good news, since we always do a lot of home cooking on the road.

Anyone for pizza? Try homestyle!

Homemade pizza with garlic & olive oil sauce, loaded with 3 cheeses, tomatoes, green peppers, onions, olives, spinach, & mushrooms

How about homemade burgers?

Homemade turkey burger with cheddar cheese, onion & mushroom jam, guacamole & fresh tomatoes on a toasted everything bagel

Off to the grocery stores! After checking out a lot of the local stores quite thoroughly, we quickly decided on our favorites:

  • fresh fruit & veg at Food Lover's Market
  • general groceries at Pick n Pay and Woolworth's
  • pharmacy needs at Clicks

Food Lover's Market was really our favorite store by far! In some ways, their mission and layout reminded us of our favorite Aldi grocery store in the United States. They are committed to responsible environmental practices like fair trade, organic farming, free range meats, and locally produced sustainable production.

Produce was fresh and plentiful at Food Lover's Market, with rows of colorful options to choose from at reasonable prices

Food Lover's fresh fruit and vegetables were of the highest quality, with row upon row of colorful choices at very reasonable prices.  It didn't hurt that they also had a very talented bakery staff! 

To top it all off, Food Lover's also had an amazing sit-down restaurant attached to their Seattle Coffee shop. They offered an irresistible special that we sampled several times: A  7 oz/200 gram steak that came with either a fresh salad or an ample helping of fries. On days when we when we wanted to change things up, we ordered a huge piece of fried hake served with homemade coleslaw.

The steak was a lot bigger than the advertised 7 oz/200 grams, at more like 10.5 oz/300grams. You're not going to believe the price: about $3.85 for the steak special and about $4.33 for the hake! Beats the heck out of fast food.

 The lunch special at Food Lover's cafe was a delicious meal at a great price, which Mauricio and Rainman enjoyed more than once! 

Of course, we also had to check out the local restaurant scene. A few favorites emerged as we regularly sampled the contenders.

By far, our favorite restaurant was Pajamas & Jam in the next town over. Where to start? Bring your camera and a big appetite! When we first arrived, we weren't sure we were in the right place. The restaurant was tucked away in the heart of the industrial area, right next to an old scrap metal outlet. And there was a full-sized helicopter displayed on the roof! 

As the saying goes, don't judge a book by its cover... or a restaurant by its location!

Entering the front door, we couldn't believe our eyes! It would be difficult to accurately describe the scene. Picture an upscale, ultra-cool bakery and restaurant, with heavy steam punk, antique, and industrial accents, in a garden-like setting! All kinds of repurposed retro artifacts were scattered throughout the restaurant. Bicycles, antique dresses, old jars, dusty old books, and old leather works decorated the walls and ceiling.

As we walked past the front register, our senses were assaulted by the huge selection of freshly baked cakes, cookies, and desserts on display. Visions of sweet treats danced in our heads...

The inviting choice of desserts under glass bell jars as you first enter Pajamas & Jam was a feast for the senses

The place was packed, and we saw why there was so much hype about this special place. You couldn't go there just once, there were just too many amazing options to try! The coffee was freshly ground and freshly brewed, and smelled incredible.

An omelet with mushrooms, tomato relish, pesto, and fresh basil

The breakfast and lunch menus are creatively engineered to reflect the beautiful imaginations of the people who put this place together. Apparently, the offerings change regularly depending on what fresh local ingredients are in season. Pajamas & Jam is absolutely a feast for the eyes, the nose, the mind, the spirit, and, of course, the hungry stomach!

Stuffed pancakes with clotted cream and candied guava

After your appetite is satisfied, wander next door to their attached Wonderland Costumes shop. It was chock full of old fashioned clothing, accessories, and masks. Browse the racks to put together a no-one-else-has-this outfit for your next costume party!

Wonderland Costumes carries a wide range of unique pieces to make your outfit a hit for your next costume party 

Another favorite restaurant was Im Eimer in Somerset West, located quite some distance away from the town's commercial center. This establishment is owned by the Hucke family, who have painstakingly created this establishment since opening in 2011. 

First impressions set our expectation level at low as we drove up to the entrance, and we weren't sure what to expect. The parking lot and restaurant entrance were quite dimly lit. For a moment, we weren't sure they were even open. From the outside, the restaurant looked a lot like some of the dusty old cowboy bars we'd visited in the southwestern United States.

As we entered the building, we realized that the dim lighting is an intentional part of the appeal of this unique restaurant. The set-up is very casual, with long wooden tables for a family style atmosphere. The Hucke family has slowly accumulated hundreds of antique odds and ends that are displayed in creative ways all over the restaurant. The ceilings and walls have become exhibiting spaces for these artifacts of bygone years.

Dim lighting and long tables create a cozy family-style atmosphere in the dining room at Im Eimer

The name "Im Eimer" is symbolic of their mission to recreate value and meaning out of our past. "Im Eimer" means literally "in the bucket." The story goes that when things are used up and no longer useful, they are placed in the bucket, a symbolic story from the old days. The Hucke family proudly resurrects and showcases pieces from the "bucket!"

The star menu item of the night would be the Eisbein, a traditional Bayerische Schweinhaxe! We'd never heard of an Eisbein before that night, and the description didn't sound that appealing. But everyone in the family was raving about it, so Rainman was game to try it out. Tricia opted for the chicken schnitzel and spaetzle, other German specialties found on the menu.

Other German favorites on the menu at Im Eimer included several types of schnitzel, and the homemade egg noodle called spaetzle

The Schweinshaxe is actually a traditional German pickled ham hock. The Bayrische version of the ham hock is slow cooked for almost four hours until the crackling skin is perfectly crispy, with the meat still moist and juicy! Our mouths water just thinking back on that night.

As the restaurant recommended, we had placed our Eisbein orders much earlier in the day to make sure we wouldn't have to wait long. This was sound advice for our large group of 10 adults and two children. Our group was super-sized, with Rainman's sister, Margaret, and her extended family visiting from Ireland for a week-long visit.  

The restaurant offers two sizes to choose from: the full Eisbein (about $11) or the Ladies Eisbein (about $6). Rainman joined several who opted for the full version, while others chose the smaller portion. 

Eisbein is the star on the menu at Im Eimer, served with sauerkraut and mashed potato

When the Eisbeins first arrived, it was a bit overwhelming. What do you eat first--the crackling or the meat or the sauerkraut? So much good on that plate. Every bite was as advertised. Delicious! Delicious! Delicious! In hindsight, though, we could have been perfectly happy with the Ladies Eisbein. Doggie bags were in order!

All we can say is that, if you every come to the Helderberg area, you simply MUST get an Eisbein at Im Eimer! It is a special menu item at a one-of-a-kind restaurant. Tricia was also pleased and satisfied with her alternate choices. We can't say enough about the place.

Switching gears, another of our favorite restaurants actually isn't a really restaurant at all--it's a coffee shop! Heartlands Baby Sanctuary is in Somerset West, about 8 miles/13 km west of Gordon's Bay. The store and coffee shop proceeds support the local Heartlands Baby Sanctuary that temporarily looks after abused or orphaned babies and children up to six years of age. They have facilities for up to 25 children.

The Heartlands Coffee Shop helps to supports its mission of helping abused or orphaned babies & children up to six years old

The Heartlands store carries a wide selection of low-priced, second-hand items that are donated. You'll find clothing, household items, and odds and ends. Their specialty, however, is gently used items for babies and children. Parents can find clothing, toys, high chairs, and car seats, all for reasonable low prices. And the staff who run the place are friendly and welcoming.

The attached coffee shop has a simple breakfast and lunch menu, with two seating areas. The indoor area is bright and comfortable, while the rustic outdoor tables are nestled under the shade of a big tree. Their freshly made salad with roasted seasonal vegetables, goat cheese, and grilled chicken strips was our favorite. It was a big portion for only $5! They also had yummy homemade cakes and muffins for dessert. 

The lunch salad was loaded with goodies, for only $5! Jane & Rainman chose a chicken salad sandwich, but opted for the salad on a later visit

Another favorite eatery that gave us shelter on load shedding evenings was Bossa Goodtimes restaurant in the Strand, located about 5 miles/8 km from Gordon's Bay. They have a huge steakhouse menu, but their wide selection of outstanding gourmet burgers appears to be most popular.  Oh, and did we mention that the restaurant has a 270 degree ocean view!

On Monday evenings, Bossa Goodtimes runs a burger special that is just unbeatable. Patrons can sink their teeth into any of their Big Boy 7 oz/200 gram gourmet burgers for about $5, and that includes a healthy side of fries! For a small upcharge, you can choose sweet potato fries, which was always a yes for Tricia.

The gourmet burgers on the Monday night special at Bossa were a double handful of yummy at a bargain price

Here are some of the gourmet burger options we tried, because of course, someone had to do the research, and we decided to take on the task.

  • Irish Blue Bomber: Blue cheese, grilled mushrooms, and Jameson's Whiskey-glazed onions
  • Peppered Brie: Pepper-crusted patty, charred brie slices, Madagascan pepper sauce, and wild rocket
  • Madd Dog: Melted cheddar, bacon, sautéed mushrooms, toasted onions, and advocado
  • Funky Monkey: Melted cheddar, toasted onions, grilled mushrooms, and Monkey Gland sauce (a savory/sweet sauce made with chutney, originally from South Africa)

On Wednesdays, Jane's half day off, she showed us the many cafes all along the Gordon's Bay and Strand beaches. They were often associated with second-hand shops, dedicated to worthwhile missions. Their little eateries were often situated in a peaceful garden setting, and were reasonably priced. We also especially enjoyed the uniquely decorated shops. 

The lunch tables at the second-hand shops were often situated in peaceful garden settings

We would often take an early morning walk along the Gordon's Bay beachfront, enjoying the fresh ocean air while looking for shells. Sometimes, we'd find the unexpected, but always appreciated our close proximity to the beach.

On one of our morning walks, we found a giant piece of kelp on the beach next to our Boardwalk home base in Gordon's Bay

On our return home, we would stop in to our favorite java house called On the Go. The cafe is located along Beach Road, in a bustling little section of town with a direct view of the ocean. The cafe offers an array of coffees, and some sweet treats to enjoy with whatever you choose. Cappuccino for Rainman, which cost about $2; red cappuccino for Tricia, also at about $2.

Relaxing after our morning walk with a rooibos cappuccino at On the Go cafe

The red cap is made from rooibos, a native plant grown mainly in the mountainous Cederberg region of South Africa in the Western Cape province. Pronounced ROY-boss, its name translates to red bush in Afrikaans. Rooibos has a delicate flavor that is sweet and aromatic. As an herbal tea, it is caffeine-free, and contains a high concentration of vitamins and polyphenols, providing innumerable health benefits. It is a popular item on menus all around the WESTERN CAPE AND BEYOND.

Rooibos tea is healthy and caffeine free, made from a native plant grown mainly in the Western Cape's mountainous Cederberg region 

In Gordon's Bay we had access to great eateries, picturesque beaches, and the natural beauty of the area. As if this wasn't enough, we witnessed opportunities for extreme sport enthusiasts, with a couple of venues close by. Even if you aren't a participant, these places provide some thrilling viewing for spectators. 

Sir Lowry's Pass is easily accessible from Gordon's Bay, on the N2 highway that winds its way up into the Hottentots Holland Mountains. The drive along this pass provides sweeping scenic views of the town, leading all the way to the ocean in the distance. Off one area of the mountain is a sloping section that is ideal for paragliders to launch when the winds blow in a westerly direction. 

The slope of the mountainside off Sir Lowry's Pass is ideal for paragliders to launch, and provides a sweeping view of Gordon's Bay below

We had seen the paragliders on previous visits to the Western Cape, and as we were approaching this area on our drive along the Pass, we asked Mauricio whether we might be seeing them this time. The paragliders assemble their rigs in a parking lot at the look-out point, and as we rounded a bend and approached the lot, we were excited to happen upon a group getting up and running. Or more accurately, running and going up!

We quickly parked and jumped out to observe about eight paragliders in various stages of action. Some were already riding the thermals, some were unfurling the colorful fabric wings, while others were just starting to unpack. It seems we had arrived just in time! We were lucky enough to see a group of gliders soaring above the canopy below, and several more in the early stages before taking off from the overlook. 

The mountainside was draped in color as the paragliders prepared for launch

One of the flights involved a tandem flight of a novice flying with an expert. We felt like we were auditing the training lesson, as we watched the detailed and careful steps required to prepare for a successful choreographed leap into midair off the mountainside.

The expert and the novice prepared for their tandem ride...

We were excited to be onlookers, and could only imagine what the gliders were experiencing! From our perspective, this jump was indeed a leap--of faith! Before we knew it, they were ready to go. Without hesitation came a quick synchronized run, then the pair caught a draft, lifted off effortlessly into the air, and soared away like a big colorful bird...

...and they're up, up, and away!

Looking out over the expansive view, the gliders who were drifting along the winds painted the sky with color. They seemed to be floating effortlessly, as if they could stay up there for hours.

When all the gliders were off the mountain, we followed suit and made our descent down the steep pass. The landing area was way below at the base, and we were fortunate to witness a few of the adventurers touch safely down as we passed by. Some of the early gliders were already waiting for their fellow riders. What a memorable ride they must have experienced on Mother Nature's magic carpet...

The Birdmen offers paragliding experiences for novices and seasoned gliders

Close to the base of Sir Lowry's Pass near the N2 highway, Jane's daughter, Rochelle, introduced us to another extreme sport location. The Blue Rock Resort is situated in a beautiful natural setting.

The sizable body of blue water was quite unexpected as we came through the dense trees in the surrounding park. This must have been an old rock quarry that was allowed to fill with water. The deepest point in this man-made lake is said to be about 197 ft/60 m. 

The water playground at Blue Rock Resort is hidden away in a beautiful natural setting

The lake is outfitted with a very powerful pulley system capable of supporting several water sports, including water skiing, ziplining, and wake-boarding. Watching from our viewpoint high above the quarry, we watched in anticipation as the cable system transported eight wake-boarders around the inner perimeter. Ramps and jumps provided the athletes with challenging obstacles to master. The skilled riders even performed side-by-side maneuvers, syncing up their jumps.

An attendant operates the pulley system that transports athletes around the quarry's obstacle course

Though we didn't see the zip line in action, we read that it is over 1,300 ft/400 m long. This use of the structure sounds like it would also be quite a sight to see, and a thrilling one to experience firsthand. The resort also offers training opportunities for those interested in commercial and free diving. What an ingenious use of an existing landmark, and a remarkable resource for the region--all in a fabulous venue!

Aattached to the pulley, athletes water ski around the quarry and tackle numerous jumps and ramps

The next week was spent simply enjoying our amazing marina apartment and spending time with family.  Jane and Tricia went for a pedicure (Tricia's first ever!), we watched our niece compete and win ribbons in an equestrian event with her horse Mambo, and brother William had the family over for octopus. We also hosted whichever family members were available that day for a homemade meal served on our balcony, a frequent occurrence that we dubbed The Lunch Club.

We appreciated simple pleasures like hosting available family members for The Lunch Club to enjoy a homemade meal and our balcony view

TIME TO MOVE ON...
It had been such a treat to have an extended time with family, to feel like we were actually living as part of their everyday lives. And we would doing it again, for another three months starting in March of 2023!

Starting the day with a relaxing scenic breakfast on our balcony at the Boardwalk apartment was a real treat

Till then, it was time for final packing, checking our travel arrangements for the next leg of our trip, and vacating our little slice of heaven in Gordon's Bay. 

We had a few farewell get-togethers with family: one hosted by William at his beautiful home in Gordon's Bay, featuring a stunning view...

The beautiful view at sunset from brother William's home in Gordon's Bay

The main course was baboutie--a South African dish made with spiced minced meat baked with an egg-based topping. Rice, salad, and South African toffee pudding for dessert rounded out the yummy menu.

The main course of the farewell meal was baboutie, organized and served by William's daughter and her boyfriend

A baked chicken, roast potato and veg meal in the back garden at Mauricio and Jane's lovely home, with Nicko, Rochelle, Leigha, and Barbara...

The farewell family gathering was bittersweet, remembering the special times we had together, but knowing we would be leaving soon

... and a Thai pasta meal we hosted at our Boardwalk apartment.  So many adventures, so many memories, so many heartfelt speeches recalling our time together and what we mean to each other ... Yup, there were some tears! But also lots of laughs, and many hugs.

A special family group photo to commemorate our treasured visit that would soon be coming to an end... until next year!

We said our tearful goodbyes to Mauricio, and loaded our two suitcases and two backpacks into Jane's car. Due to space constraints and his 6' 7" frame, he would stay and cover the office for Jane. We picked up Rochelle, then Barbara, and headed to the Cape Town airport. 

Luggage checked, more tearful goodbyes, and then back to the realities of Covid travel, airport security lines, and making those frantic airport transitions. That's the down side of travel, and a necessary part of getting to another new experience. After all, we are living our better lives, on the road! And we wouldn't have it any other way...

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