Croatia: The Dalmatian Coast at a Glance

May 28, 2023

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Croatia is located on the Adriatic Sea at the crossroads of Central and Southwest Europe.

The Dalmatian coast is well known for a rich cultural history, its islands and the mesmerizing views of the Adriatic, and, for some, its fictional Game of Thrones locations. Many tourists may be familiar with Split and Dubrovnik, but the region between the two cities is also worth a deep dive.

Interesting Facts

The Croats are not indigenous to the region. They arrived in the late-6th or early-7th century as part of the Avar expansion into southeastern Europe.
Roman Emperor Diocletian was born in Croatia and built a retirement palace in the city of Split, living his last eight years in the city.
The city of Dubrovnik was originally established by refugees from the nearby Roman city of Epidaurum, who were escaping the crumbling Roman Empire.
The English poet, Lord Byron, was the first to describe Dubrovnik as "the pearl of the Ardriatic."
Croatia is ranked as the 23rd most popular tourist destination in the world.
Dalmatians, the canine breed of Cruella de Vil fame, are said to have originated from the Dalmatian coastal area.
Despite its relatively small population of four million, Croatia has enjoyed great success in World Cup soccer competition, placing 3rd in 1998 and 2nd in 2018.
The famous electricity pioneer, Nicola Tesla, was born in Croatia.
Croatian mercenaries introduced the earliest version of the neck-tie. The cravat was part of the traditional uniform worn as they fought throughout Europe.
The Bora is one of the strongest winds in the world, boasting speeds that reach hurricane strength at times. This is a cold, dry wind that blows from the mainland toward the Adriatic Sea.
Croatia shares borders with Serbia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Montenegro, Slovenia, and Hungary.

Croatians love their soccer team "Hajduk" and tributes like this are common

Key Background Information

Travel accompanied by knowing something about the local historical, cultural, and geographical context adds a sense of magic that can enrich each travel experience. Knowledge of the ghosts of eras past, the secret ingredients of the national foods, the rhythm of the local music, the wildlife inhabitants, and the historic battles that shaped the area--all can all have profound influences on how you perceive your visit, and what you take away from it.

We learned some key background information that we found helpful in painting a more complete picture of the local Dalmatian coast, and in better appreciating our experience:

Historical Context

The Croats arrived in the early 7th Century, defeating the Avars for control over Dalmatia. Arrival coincided with the final disintegration of the Roman Empire.
Early Croatian history was unstable, as regional powers jockeyed for control over the Dalmatian coast. Byzantine, Arab, Frankish, Bulgarian, and Venetian invasions were common. The area was governed as the Duchy of Croatia.
Croatia was proclaimed a Kingdom with the accent of Tomislav to the throne around 925 AD.
The Austrians and the Austro-Hungarian Empire had great control over the area starting in the early 16th Century all the way up to the end of WWI, except for a brief interruption when Napoleon's forces controlled the area from 1797 to 1809. The end of WWI saw the creation of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, which was eventually succeeded by the Republic of Yugoslavia after WWII.
Croatia declared its independence in 1991, and formally joined the European Union in 2013.

CULTURAL INFLUENCES & ELEMENTS

Kamerlengo Castle in historic Trogir, one of Croatia's 10 UNESCO World Heritage Sites

Essentially, Croatian's early cultural influences came from interactions with the dominant Western Roman and Byzantine Empires--east meets west. Later influences came largely from Central European and Mediterranean cultures.
Croatia is blessed with 10 UNESCO World Heritage Sites and 15 UNESCO Intangible Cultural Masterpieces.
Croatian is the official language of the country, using the Latin or Roman alphabet. Most Croatians have knowledge of a 2nd language, primarily English and German.
The dominant religion remains Catholicism (86%). Eastern Orthodoxy is practiced by about 4% of the population.
Croatian cuisine has an abundance of delicious influences: Italian, Austrian, Hungarian, Greek, and Turkish.

GEOGRAPHY & WEATHER

The Peljesac Bridge connecting mainland Croatia with the Peljesac peninsula

The Dalmatian coast extends from Zadar in the north all the way to Dubrovnik in the south. This designation covers the four southern-most coastal counties of Croatia: Zadar County, Sibenik-Knin County, Split-Dalmatia County, and Dubrovnik-Neretva County.
The Croatian Dalmatian coast is not continuous from Zadar to Dubrovnik. Bosnia & Herzegovina extends to the Dalmatian coast just north of Dubrovnik. Travel from Croatian points up north must transit briefly through Bosnia & Herzegovina and go through the seaside town of Neum.
The Croatian government is in the process of completing a bridge that would connect mainland Croatia with the Peljesac peninsula. A Chinese construction consortium is scheduled to complete the 2.4 km Peljesac Bridge by July 2022. North/south travel will no longer require entry into Bosnia & Herzegovina.
The major Dalmatian islands are Brac, Korcula, Vis, Hvar, Dugi Otok, Mljet, Pga, and Pasman. Croatia has over 1,200 islands in total!
Average summer temperatures in Dalmatia average between highs of 70-86 degrees F/21-30 degrees C between June and the end of September. Winter temperatures average between 48-57 degrees F/9-14 degrees C between December and April.
Average relative humidity in Dalmatia during the summer months ranges from 50-60%. November to January are the most humid months, averaging between 60-70%.
The most desirable weather months to visit the Dalmatian coast are May, June, and September.

TOURISM IN CROATIA

The Skradinski Buk waterfall in Krka National Park

Tourism represents more than 20% of GDP in the Croatian economy. Not surprisingly, more than 70% of Croatians are employed in the service industry.
Croatia is most popular as a tourist destination for tourists from Germany, Austria, Slovenia, and Italy. Dubrovnik is the most popular Croatian destination.
Croatia welcomes more than 20 million visitors each year. Most tourists spend the bulk of their time on the coast of the Adriatic Sea.
Croatia boasts 10 UNESCO World Heritage Sites and eight National Parks.
The Croatian National Tourist Board identifies six major tourist regions: Istria, Slavonia, Zagreb, Kvarner & Highlands, Central & Northern Croatia, and Dalmatia.
The number of tourism attractions in Dalmatia are too numerous to list. Following is a summary of the biggest Dalmatian tourist zones and the attractions that can be accessed from these hubs: Zadar (Zadar Old Town, Kornati National Park islands, Paklenica National Park, and Pag Island); Sibenik (St. James Cathedral, St. Nicholas Fortress, and Krka National Park); Split (Old Town, Diocletian Palace, Makarska Riviera, Hvar Island, Brac Island, Blue Cave, Blue Lagoon, Trogir, Dubrovnik, and Korcula Island).

Getting There

Flying into the Dalmatian Coast
Closest Major Airport: Split (SPU) is served by major airlines and is fairly central to most Dalmatian attractions.
Next Closest Airport: Dubrovnik Airport (DBV) is served by major airlines, but the city is approximately 145 miles/233 km from Split.

Traveling by Bus or Ferry to the Dalmatian Coast
Checking Wanderu.com, Split is easily accessible by bus from most major European cities by FlixBus at very reasonable rates. For example, Venice (Italy) to Split takes about 14 -16 hours and costs about $60. Checking Croatiaferries.com, a ferry from Ancona (Italy) to Split takes about nine hours and costs about $40 for foot passengers. The number of ferries running in any given week depends on the season--two ferries in low season, seven ferries in high season.

Traveling by Train to the Dalmatian Coast
Checking RometoRio.com, Dalmatia is very accessible by train from most major cities across Europe. Eurail tickets are the way to go for medium to longer stays in the region. A regular train trip from Venice to Split would take about 13 - 15 hours and cost about $125.

Car Rental in the Dalmatian Coast Area
Use Kayak.com to find the best deals on car rentals: SIXT, Alamo Rental a Car, and Enterprise Car Rental tend to be competitive locally.

Arriving by Cruise Ship
Major Dalmatian Ports: Zadar, Sibenik, Split, and Dubrovnik.
Major Cruise Lines Docking in Dalmatia: Celebrity, Holland America, Royal Caribbean, Regent, Norwegian, Costa, Carnival, Princess, Cunard, and Disney.

Dalmatia Photo Gallery

Suhi Potok, a small coastal village of the Jesenice Settlement

Our coastal walk in Suhi Potok along the Adriatic Sea in Croatia

The small coastal town of Suhi Potok would be our Croatian home base

Lilies in a neighborhood garden

Our home in Suhi Potok, showing the mountain range we saw from the back bedroom window

The view of the Adriatic Sea and the island of Brac from our balcony

Numerous crops were growing in the gardens at our apartment

The giant flowers on this cactus in Ante's garden rivaled any we had seen in the Arizona desert

Ante spent a lot of time setting up garden stakes early in the growing season

The outdoor fireplace with shaded picnic area near the gardens was a peaceful spot with views of the Adriatic

An abundance of fresh fruit and veg are readily available at affordable prices

The steep climb back home in the shade of a fig tree

Romana with Tricia at our local Studenac grocery store

Shopping was a challenge, since most staff didn't speak English, and product labels were only in Croatian

Croatian eggs are often sold in packs of ten

Modern homes are scattered among the older traditional buildings in the neighborhood

Our walks along the natural beaches, with crystal clear water and a stunning backdrop

Boats moored along the coastline in Suhi Potok and Dugi Rat

On our walks, we were looking for a local restaurant and happened upon Konoba Poseijdon, opening soon

A seaside lunch at Konoba Posejdon

Zazu, a chic restaurant with a fantastic location

Scrumptious gourmet burgers and sweet potato fries, served with a beautiful sea view at Zazu

Living in a small village allowed us to immerse ourselves in the culture, and visit the cities

Heading to the trip's final swim at our favorite beach near Konoba Poseijdon

Waiting at the bus stop for our first adventure to Split

The city bus that passed our stop was not the one we had to take to get to Split

Split's Diocletian Palace and Old Town

We were fortunate to have a local historian guide all to ourselves on our AirBnB Experience tour of the Diocletian Palace

The Golden Gate of the Diocletian Palace in Split

Inside the palace, the streets are narrow and the walls are high

Rubbing Gregory of Nin's toe for good luck!

We were happy to provide tips for a fun pose with these soldiers

The Diocletian Palace is well preserved and maintained; shown here is the Peristyle

The Emperor and His Court make their first appearance of the season

A granite sphinx and columns found in the Peristyle evidence Diocletian's love for Greek relics

Looking up at the Vestibule dome of the entrance to the Imperial Apartments

We happened upon the booming voices of the three tenors, which reverberated throughout the rotunda

The dramatic architecture of Fruit Square and the statue of Marko Marulic

The wide expanse of People's Square in Split

The towering ceilings of the Palace substructure

A Game of Thrones filming location in the Diocletian Palace in Split

split's marjan hill

Our climb up Marjan Hill led us to St. Jerome Church

The view of Split from the top of Marjan Hill

The modern Split experience

Any trip to Split always started with a visit to our favorite pastry shop

Modern bumps up against ancient, and coexist seamlessly

We were ready to start exploring the modern city of Split

The Riva promenade is wide, expansive, and scenic

The Riva is a combination of peaceful surroundings and a bustle of activity

Restaurants line the building side of the promenade, with varied menus and inviting seating

The Split Ferry Port, with a state-owned Jadrolinija ferry

The vibrant rainbow colors of the produce at the Pazar in Split

Krka National Park

We opted to visit beautiful Krka National Park

The bus for our AirBnB Experience excursion to Krka was comfortable, with 50 international fellow travelers

The Klis Fortess high atop the mountain on our drive to Krka National Park

Our tour guide, Lovro, fills us in on the significance of Skradinski Buk

The stunning Skradinski Buk waterfall in Krka National Park

The excursion included a boat ride to historic Skradin

Rainbow colors in the sky, but not a rainbow!

The Fortess of Turina at the summit of the steep climb

Skradin

Climb the steep trail to the Fortress for views of Skradin village and harbor

Restaurants line the promenade along the walking path, with yachts and boats lined up along the water

Inside the Baroque Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Skradin

Historic town of Trogir

Catching the #37 bus to Trogir

Trogir is known as The City of Masters

Historic St. Mark's Lion was hidden beneath a modern triathalon festival banner

The living city of historic Trogir, and Bella Gelato

Narodni Trg Square

The ornate entrance to the St. Lawrence Cathedral

The Bell Tower in Narodni Trg Square was constructed later than the cathedral, but it still relatively old!

Restaurant umbrellas fill the interior of Narodni Trg Square, making it impossible to capture all angles of its architecture

The decorative ceilings and walls of the Town Loggia

The pedestrian promenade in Trogir is similar to the Riva in Spkit

The Kamerlengo Castle towers at the end of the promenade

The stairs leading to the upper level of the castle

Climbing to the tower's tippy top via a narrow ladder was not in the cards for us

The colorful Green Market in Trogir offers a rainbow of fresh garden produce

Our loaded panini sandwich from Big Mama's Grill & Food in Trogir required two hands to hold

The scenic road trip between Split and Dubrovnik

Our road trip to Dubrovnik set off from Split

The stunning farmlands along our route to Dubrovnik

Vineyards along the Dalmatian coast benefit from the mediterranean climate

The new Peljesac Bridge, engineered to bypass the Bosnia & Herzegovina border

Looking down on the picturesque town of Neum from our rest stop in Bosnia & Herzegovina

High quality oyster cultivation in the town of Ston

The deep water port in Dubrovnik is home to mega cruise ships

Our introduction to Dubrovnik at the stop overlooking Gruz Port and the Fanjo Tudman Bridge

Once we crossed the Fanjo Tudman bridge, the modern city of Dubrovnik came into view

Called Ragusa for a substantial part of its history, space is limited for any population increase in modern day Dubrovnik

Dubrovnik's Old Town and fortifications

Our tour guide gave us an orientation to Old Town before starting the walking tour

Fort Revelin, one of five major fortresses protecting Old Town from invaders

The walls of Old Town Dubrovnik are so well fortified that they were never penetrated

The stone bridge at the Ploce outer gate

Our first view of Old Town harbor and St. John Fort after crossing through the Ploce gate

Stradun, the Main Street in Dubrovnik's Old Town

Everday life coexists with ancient architecture within Old Town Dubrovnik

The Church of St. Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik

The Cathedral of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, also called the Dubrovnik Cathedral

The steep Jesuit Staircase, site of the Walk of Shame in the Game of Thrones series

Big Onofrio's fountain, the final destination for water to the city via its aqueduct system

St. Saviour Church, one of the oldest buildings in Old Town Dubrovnik

High on the ridge, Fort Lovrijenac protected Old Town from sea attacks; The location was the Red Keep in GOT

The pier below Fort Lovrijenac was a filming location in Game of Thrones

Fort Bokar sits on Pile Harbor, aka King's Landing Harbor in GOT

We made sure to make this Game of Throne's filming location one of our filming locations too!

Pivotal in guarding Old Town against landside invaders, Minceta Tower was the House of the Undying in GOT

The lookout point above Sveti Jakov Beach, with views of Old Town and the Island of Lokrum.

Omis, the adventure capital of Dalmatia

The Cetina River in Omis, with a bungee jumping platform jutting out from the mountainside

The picturesque town of Omis, close to our home base, was left till the end of our visit

Locating the local bakery was a favorite when visiting a new destination; this one in Omis was found near the bus stop

The deep canyons of the Cetina River in Omis became a haven for pirates, since big ships couldn't follow them up river

Wandering the winding narrow streets of Old Town in Omis

This was just the beginning of the climb up the stone steps at Mirabella Fortress

View from midway up Mirabella Fortress of the city on the river in Omis

Trying to reach to top of the Mirabella Fortress in Omis

Boats along the Cetina River, central to the launching of adventure sports in Omis

Downtown Omis was modern, with a bustling and friendly vibe

Reny's Rating

Reny is the official Hacking the Road travel mascot!

At the end of each Destination Blog, Reny rates the overall experience.

Here's Reny's awesome scale:

4 Renys = Wants to live here!
3 Renys = Doesn't want to live here, but would definitely return
2 Renys = Had a positive experience but may or may not return
1 Reny = Had an overall negative experience and will not return

Reny in Pile Harbor, Dubrovnik

Reny rates the Dalmatia Region: 4 RENYS!

The beaches ... the crystal blue Adriatic Sea ... stunning views ...
the seaside village of Suhi Potok ... the Dalmatian green markets ...
the Diocletian Palace ... the Split Riva ... Marjan Hill ...
Krka National Park ... Skradin ... Trogir ... Omis ... Dubrovnik Old Town ...
pastries ... swimming ... gardens ... the Croatian people ...

Reny wanted to keep going, but we had to reign in his enthusiasm!