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Croatia is located on the Adriatic Sea at the crossroads of Central and Southwest Europe.
This Blog is part of a travel series covering the Road Hackers' two month visit to the Dalmatian coastal region in 2022. Given time and budget considerations, we had to decide whether to visit Krka National Park or Plitvice National Park. Both Parks have spectacular waterfalls and natural vistas. Plitvice is bigger than Krka, but lies some 150 miles/240 km from our small town near Split.
We opted to visit beautiful Krka National Park
Krka National Park and the ancient village of Skradin are about 60 miles/100 km from Split. Staying true to our Dalmatia mission, we decided to visit Krka instead of Plitvice since the latter isn't technically in Dalmatia.
In researching the various options for an escorted tour to Krka, again, we settled for the secure booking of a tour with AirBnB Experiences (AE). Gray Line Tours was another serious contender. The AE reviews were just too good to ignore.
Our excursion bus left from Split at about 8:30 am, and we were back by 5:30 pm that evening. To our surprise, more than 50 travelers joined our tour--mostly European, but a few North Americans as well. Our modern bus was very comfortable, with a lot of space and great air conditioning.
The bus for our Airbnb Experience excursion to Krka was comfortable, with 50 international fellow travelers
About 15 minutes out of Split, our guide, Lovro (Lawrence in English), pointed out that we were passing the famous Klis Fortress, 7 miles/12 km from Split.
The Fortress has an almost 2,000 year history, serving valiantly as a buffer between Mediterranean Europe and invaders crossing the Balkans (most known for defending Europe during the Ottoman European Wars).
The original Fortress was built by the Illyrian tribe of Dalmatia, and lies at a key point in a critical mountain pass. Many of the Croatian kings used it as their seat of power.
Kliss Fortress also has a fictional history: The Fortress was used as a backdrop for scenes of Meereen City in the Game of Thrones series.
The Klis Fortess high atop the mountain on our drive to Krka National Park
We entered Krka National Park at the Lozovac entrance. There was quite a bit of traffic, even at 9:45 am. Our guide headed to the ticket office and bought tickets for the group, then we were off to the hiking trail.
The main trail winds its way for about 0.55 miles/0.86 km across a myriad of small islets and water channels in the general direction of the spectacular Skradinski Buk waterfall.
Kyrka actually has 16 notable waterfalls, but unfortunately the tour schedule didn't allow time for the extended tour.
As the hike progressed, we were all amazed at how pristine and blue the waters were around us. Near the beginning of the trail, we came across a stunning lesser-waterfall. The colors were mesmerizing!
A rich foundation of travertine rock has been deposited in the Krka River over the eons. The area is covered in limestone that causes calcium carbonate to dissolve in the water, creating travertine as evaporation occurs.
Our tour guide, Lovro, filled us in on the significance of Skradinski Buk
Skradinski Buk has some notable historical significance. They are world famous for being the location where distinguished Croatian Nicola Tesla pioneered the Krka Hydropower Plant in 1895. The second hydro electric plant in the world opened two days later at Niagra Falls.
The vibrant vegetation along the waterways of Krka is home to 1,186 species/sub-species. The sights and sounds of abundant life surrounded us we made our way through the trail.
Beautiful wooden walkways meander through some welcome shade, and keep you close to the water and this lush ecosystem. We crossed paths with several minor waterfalls, each with their own remarkable context. Pictures... pictures... everywhere!
The stunning Skradinski Buk waterfall in Krka National Park
We got our first views of Skradinski Buk, and were in awe of its spectacular beauty. As we inched our way along the crowded bridge, we joined the mass of people already gathered to see this wonder.
The pictures tell the story. It was really special to be in the presence of such a powerful force of nature! The waterfall cascades about 140 ft/45 m as it splashes through several travertine ledges before crashing into the river below in grand style.
Our Kryk River adventure wasn't over just yet. We discovered that our Park ticket also included a nice boat ride to the ancient town of Skradin. The boat ferry departs roughly every half hour. The one-way trip takes about 25 minutes.
The excursion included a boat ride to historic Skradin
The boat was very crowded, but it was nice to relax in the shade after our hike. The cruise passed by lush green forest coverage on both sides of the river. Along the way, we also saw quite a few wild swans feeding near the water's edges.
Five minutes into the trip, we saw something we've never seen before--a strange rainbow-colored shape in the sky! It had to be a reflection off the moisture rising from all the falls. It was a magical sight!
Rainbow colors in the sky, but not a rainbow!
As we entered the village of Skradin, we saw row upon row of beautiful yachts. Skradin is clearly a popular stop for boaters exploring coastal Croatia. We also found out that a taxi boat serviced the Skradin-Sibenik/Sibenik-Skradin route on a regular basis.
Sibenik is located on the Adriatic Sea on the banks of the Krka River estuary. The taxi boat takes about an hour to make the trip.
The little village of Skradin has quite the history!
At one point, it was even the capital of Croatia and Bosnia (13th Century AD). The hill above the town has an ancient fortification called the Fortress of Turina. The major structures were largely built during Roman times, but these fortifications may have been built on top of the original hill fort built by the local Illyrian tribe (pre-730 BC). The Illyrians were eventually eclipsed by the Corinthians (Greek) before the rise of the Roman. Empire.
The Fortess of Turina at the summit of the steep climb
The hike from the village up to the Fortress takes about 15 minutes and is accessible from the town center. It is a must, if you're able.
While it is a bit steep, and a rather hot climb in the bright sun, the views are simply spectacular! The 270 degree panorama in front of the Fortress covers most of Skradin village, the harbor with all its fancy yachts, and an inspiring view of the Krka River.
Most tourists miss this gem, instead opting for a wine-tasting experience and a tour of the Old Town.
Climb the steep trail to the Fortress for views of Skradin village and harbor
On our way back down into the village, we came across a few beautifully decorated restaurants away from the waterfront. They appear to be local homes that were turned into restaurants. Potted plants and flowers line the walls and terraces.
As we reached the waterfront, it was time for a refreshing gelato. The prices are very reasonable here: a single scoop is priced at about $1.40. What a nice treat after a warm hike to the Fortress!
The waterfront promenade is lined with picturesque small outdoor restaurants, just feet away from million dollar yachts and boats. Considering the location, the prices are quite reasonable--about 80% of American restaurant rates.
For the budget-oriented, there are also many grab-and-go options as you explore the town away from the waterfront.
Restaurants line the promenade along the walking path, with yachts and boats lined up along the water
From the waterfront, we headed back up the main street that cuts through the town center as we made our way to the tour bus meeting point. The street is lined with Venetian-style houses and all kinds of small local shops.
Reaching the southern end of Main Street, we entered Mall Gospa Square, one of the central gathering points for the community. Our eyes were immediately drawn to the Baroque Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary.
The church was built by the Venetians (1758) on top of the ruins of an old Turkish Mosque. Once inside, we were treated to stunning paintings on the vaulted ceilings. The organ at the back of the church dates back to 1776 and is considered a national treasure.
Inside the Baroque Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary in Skradin
There's a lot more to Skradin, but our time was up and we headed to the bus for our return to Split. Once there, we caught the local bus back to our little coastal village of Suhi Potok.
Up Next: TROGIR - THE CITY OF MASTERS